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| "The
art of distilling has been revived in the orchards of Somerset..." |
| Apples that
pack punch |
| Rural
Britain still holds many surprises when it comes to food and drink,
says HUGH FEARNLEY-WHITTINGSTALL |
| from the LONDON EVENING STANDARD |
| There is another fabulous West Country
taste to which Londoners can have easier access, though I must say I
find myself almost surprised to be recommending it. Surprised,
because I have long been of the view that all the best alcoholic
drinks were invented a long time ago, and that any new drinks on the
block are strictly the products of marketing men who've got too big
for their spotty bow ties. I mean, have you ever had an alcopop that
didn't taste like stale Beecham powders with too much added sugar?
And have you ever even thought of ordering Mirage, or Taboo, except
as a dare? |
| Given this hostility towards all
new-fangled booze ventures, I can't really explain quite why I
picked up a bottle of Kingston Black apple aperitif from the wine
shop in Beaminster. It had a nice colour, and came in a pretty
bottle – but then the man in the bow tie would have seen to
that, wouldn't he? |
| It hardly matters, because it turns
out to be absolutely delicious: neither too sweet, nor too fragrant,
but focused, rich and deep, with a long, warming calvados and oak
finish. It's more like a Pineau des Charentes than a sherry, and the
makers, the Somerset Cider Brandy Company, should be justly proud of
it. Connoisseurs of sherry, white port, Pineau and other grape-based
fortified aperitifs should throw aside their prejudice for a moment
to give this appley pre-dinner tipple a chance to impress. In my
view it ranks alongside these classics, and deserves a grand future. |
| Londoners can find Kingston Black
apple aperitif only in Fortnum and Mason at the moment, but it is
available directly by mail order from the makers in Somerset. Call
01460 240782. |
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